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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end names. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest shop securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.